Turning Point: Starting a Business in Italy

This month my wife and I passed several major milestones in our Italian adventure, each with legal, physical, and psychological aspects.

First, we have lived in our house, in the village of Santa Vittoria in Matenano, in the Marche region of east-central Italy, for eight years now. For me, that is the longest period ever spent in any one place, in any single house. In contrast to many of the places I have lived in the United States, this finally feels like home – a feeling that is both precious and permanent. Meanwhile, my wife, who – unlike me – actually has Italian genes, is reacquiring customs, attitudes, and language brought by her ancestors to American shores more than a century ago but diluted with time.

Second, we feel great satisfaction in having found ways to integrate into this community. When we first applied for residency with the questura – a department of the provincial police that handles immigration – we signed a document pledging to integrate. Helpfully, it contained a lengthy list of acceptable ways. During these initial years, we have accomplished most of the items. We enrolled in a civics course, learned the language, taught classes in schools, participated in local events, hosted visiting groups, and helped fund local concerts. Last year, the mayor made an exhibition of my sketches an official city event – something I didn’t ask for.

Third, as immigrants we have just gained “Permanent Resident” status. An electronic card with an embedded chip is granted after meeting certain requirements: living in Italy continuously for at least five years, having sufficient income to support oneself, and passing a language exam. In return, the permit requires no renewal; it grants access to the healthcare system with no annual fee; and it allows the recipient to freely live and work in Italy or anywhere in the European Union. Such permits are now being issued by all EU countries as a way of harmonizing previously wide variations in immigration rules. Each sovereign nation can still control the numbers of immigrants and legal residents, but the criteria are being regularized and made applicable across borders.

This last milestone is monumental. The Elective Residency Visa that granted us entry to Italy does not allow the resident to earn income from work; one must prove sufficient income from “passive” sources such as social security, a pension or annuity. Permanent Residency, in contrast, allows residents to work, if they choose to do so. It allows my wife, “Sunny” Savina Bertollini, who is an herbalist, to open a business selling hand-made, plant-based skin-care products, engage in active marketing, and hire assistants. She can also apply for government grants intended to help women-owned businesses in small towns with start-up costs.

For the past six months, she has been operating an artisanal studio under the name “The Hidden Alchemist” (or “Alchemista Nascosta” in Italian) but with a subtle presence on the street – a modest storefront. A provision in Italian business law allows artists and artisans to operate a “hobby business” without the usual bureaucratic procedures, permits, and taxes required of full-scale businesses. Yes, they use the English word “hobby,” even though it is not an entirely accurate use of the term.

This permit has given her a head start on a longer-term plan. Over several months, she has been slowly ramping up her production and product display area. Word of mouth – the old-school method – has brought clients to her studio. But with our new residency status, she recently installed a sign, which has helped to draw more clients. A busy workshop in the rear is visible proof that she makes all the products herself – like peeking into the kitchen of a fine restaurant. It also allows her to honestly use the “Made in Italy” tagline.

She already has a website – alchimistanascosta.com  – that has drawn clientele from around the world. One of her most popular products is a two-part anti-mosquito defense kit. Through many experiments with herbal ingredients, she discovered that mosquitoes dislike catnip; they avoid the scent.

Using an ancient process known as “enfleurage,” she combines catnip with other plant derivations to create a repellent that can be sprayed on with a squeeze bottle. But because, inevitably, one misses some areas, some mosquitoes still get through. So, part 2 of the kit is a topical serum that instantly eliminates the itchy sensation and dissolves the raised welt, preventing the scratching that can make things worse and leave unsightly scabs. Twenty-four hours later, only a tiny red mark remains.

As for me, now a permanent resident, I am finally allowed to receive royalties from my publisher for the book Navigating Paradise that I wrote and illustrated during the pandemic. He has held the income in an account until my change in status. In the meantime, we have done readings for various audiences – Italians and English speakers. I read the English version; he tells the story in an emotive manner that appeals to the Italian ear.

In addition, I’ve been laying the groundwork for a service that provides continuing education credits for American city planners. We organized a beta test with a five-day course this past May. Despite relatively little publicity, 15 people enrolled. We can accommodate as many as 25 in local lodging. The participants learned from their counterparts in Italy about policies, programs, and projects that address community issues. There were tours of historic sites, other towns, and an active archaeological dig. Some people brought family members and coupled the learning experience with personal travel before or after the course.

We are contemplating a similar program for people who are not professional planners, but who would enjoy learning about Italian methods of education, transportation, infrastructure, public spaces, and commerce within regions and communities. This form of ecotourism would offer a unique travel experience and build upon long-standing cultural ties between Italy and America. This could be useful to people who intend to move to Italy and wish to know more about the culture than its monuments, wines, and beaches.

These initiatives face a number of bureaucratic hurdles; it’s not easy to start a new enterprise in any country, and Italy is no exception. The entrepreneur must obtain permits, file the company’s ownership and business partners, and comply with the tax regulations Inspections must be held and operating rules obeyed. Fortunately, we have a capable attorney and a good accountant in our village who provide us with excellent assistance. We also have many Italian friends who can give us the benefit of their own experience.

The affable mayor of our village has been enormously supportive of our community-oriented enterprises, intervening when we’ve encountered an occasional snag. He sees the merit of encouraging new businesses. We enjoy giving back to a community that so unexpectedly and generously welcomed us eight years ago.

Many small towns in Italy are struggling with population decline due to deaths in an aging populace, a long-term decrease in the birth rate, and younger people moving to other EU countries for good paying jobs. In just the time we have lived here, the country’s population has declined from a peak of 60 million to the current 58 million. This downward trend persists despite hundreds of thousands of foreigners arriving each year.

After surviving the many arcane and unpredictable aspects of immigrating, we now feel up to the challenge of entering the business arena. Like pioneers in a reverse direction, we hope to bring to a place in the Old World some of the acumen, energy, and chutzpah of the New.